"The Saxon fish soup is amazing! Make sure you have it!", the inspector from table 1 advised the four Austrians at table 2 (all table numbers are fictitious to protect the identity of the guests). That wasn't offensive, it was absolutely right. I should have done the same when my table neighbors at table 8 opted for three of the four courses on the Chef's Star Hour menu at Caroussel Nouvelle and thus decided against the Saxon fish soup à la bouillabaisse. But firstly, I'm even shyer than the subtle, melancholy Tatort detective and secondly, the couple with the Czech dialect ordered just a moment too early for the possible hint: I hadn't even started spooning yet.
Yes, an evening like this in the Bülow Palais bistro is communicative, even if you don't say much yourself. But as Kurt Tucholsky lamented (in his fabulous love story Schloss Gripsholm): "God give us earlids. We are inadequately equipped." So we listen in (un)voluntarily - in compliance with the principles of the General Data Protection Regulation, of course - and are happy to do so. Because the voice of the people likes to meet in the restaurant, even if it is a little more upmarket. And so I would like to mention the couple at table 3, who otherwise speak Ruhr area German, and the dialectally inconspicuous gentlemen at table 7, who had an awakening experience when selecting their red wine. The wine they had originally brought turned out not to be the right one when they tried it, so the service lady recommended a Saxon after recognizing the desired taste. The beer-drinking counterpart immediately asked: "Wouldn't you prefer a French or a nice Italian?" (he meant wine both times). The result was a red from Schwarz - and it fit the bill. Both gentlemen were amazed: what is possible in Saxony, by golly!
The Coroussel has once again shed its skin, after the Michelin-starred restaurant it was a balancing act restaurant with a mix of fine dining and upscale hotel cuisine. It was a bold concept, because not everything that is offered together always goes together - but with knowledge or good advice, you got what you wanted. Then the last member of the old kitchen team followed his former boss - and the signs of the times were pointing to a change anyway: so the plan now is to revive an old concept under the old name: French bistro cuisine (we already had it in Bülow's Bistro in 2012!). The cooking star menu was also served, very appropriately, in the front part of the restaurant - the bistro, which now has better seating options.
All the tables are perfectly set, and most of them are actually occupied during the course of the evening. The carpeted floor ensures that the lively conversations of the guests don't become a roar in the ears, four service staff look after the guests in a trained and attentive manner. Kitchen greetings do not fit in with the new concept (although the prices are also lower!), but there are two types of bread, spread and olive oil - that's all you need. But there is a very inviting small menu on the table, from which you can choose oysters (3 pieces €15) and/or an aperitif - non-alcoholic sparkling wine (€10), champagne (€21/€28) or, as an insider tip, the 2017 Pinot Brut Nature from Schloss Wackerbarth (€12). Here, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris grapes were allowed to mature in the bottle for 30 months to now provide the prelude to a beautiful menu with zero residual sweetness.
Thorsten Bubolz is the new head chef at Caroussel. He is known from various positions (including Lesage, Schlosshotel Pillnitz) as a level-headed chef who likes things to be straightforward and tasteful. The native of Lower Saxony has retained this style, whereby tasteful also applies to the appearance. Of course, the beef tartare was superbly prepared, and with the pickled vegetables it is a classic. The coq au vin also went down well - although I like the somewhat more rustic classic version, in which the rooster swims in the sauce, better. Here, the use of the sauce and the arrangement gave a hint of the fine-dining version - but it's the result that counts (Hauptsach gudd gess, as the Saarlanders say). But between these two courses came: the soup.
Saxon fish soup à la bouillabaisse is a statement. In the southern French bouillabaisse, all kinds of sea creatures cavort, bringing together many nuances of flavor. It is hearty and filling - and spicy thanks to the use of rouille (a garlic and chili sauce). As the second of four courses and far away from the Mediterranean, the parameters should be different, and they were: more stimulating than filling and, with over a thousand kilometers to Marseille as the crow flies, not made with Mediterranean specialties, but with those from Saxony - salmon trout and char were really good, however, and if you know how to finely season the soup with coriander oil, for example, spontaneous exclamations such as "sensational" or similar praise can be heard. The rouille, which is often forgotten far from its place of origin, came here on a crostini - fabulous.
The Bülow Palais is one of the most dignified places in Dresden to enjoy good, mature (and unfortunately sometimes very expensive) wines. In this respect, you are well advised to choose a wine pairing that matches the menu. If you like, you can also order an upgrade (to be paid for separately) for the fish soup and/or the main course - sommelier Felix Grupe and Jonas Reichenbach (who gave me excellent advice again this year, but I already knew that from last year's visit) had come up with this to show what else they have in the cellar. For the fish soup, I stuck with the standard offering because I had been looking forward to the Haardter Chardonnay from Weingut Andres when I read the menu, and for the main course I went for the much older alternative to the standard: 2013 Domaine Jean-Paul et Stephane Magnien Les Sentiers, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, France is (Premier Cru or not, 2013 vintage) still an inexpensive wine from Burgundy - which reflects the classification of good, but not great. The Riesling RZ 26 from Martin Schwarz was then again without alternative, in every respect...
Menu
- Beef tartare | pickled vegetables | egg yolk | herb mayonnaise
- Saxon fish soup à la bouillabaisse
- Coq au vin | green asparagus | potato
- Lemon tart | mint & Baiser
Wine pairing
- 2023 Sauvignon Blanc "Saint Bris", Domaine Felix et Fils, Burgundy, France
- 2024 Haardter Chardonnay, Weingut Andres, Pfalz
- Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Simone, Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils, Burgundy, France
alternatively: 2013 Domaine Jean-Paul et Stephane Magnien Les Sentiers, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, France - 2023 Riesling RZ 26, Weingut Martin Schwarz, Saxony
Info
3-course (without fish soup) 58 €
incl. Wine accompaniment 92 €
4-course 75,00 €
incl. wine accompaniment 117 €
Caroussel Nouvelle
Hotel Bülow Palais
Königstraße 14
01097 Dresden
Tel. +49 351-8003140
buelow-palais.de
[Visited on February 10, 2026]
